Model #LHW0050PQ4, The cold water valve failed allowing water to continuously flow into the tub until water running across the floor was discovered. Replacing the water valve solved the problem, but looking at the valve inlet, debris from the house water line has been building up inside and most likely prevented the valve from closing properly. Best to check your valve screens every so often.

Model #AGQ7000ES1, Unit started once, but would only make a humming sound when the start button was pressed after that. The motor start winding had been damaged by the centrifugal switch, so now it needs a new motor. To verify it was the motor, simply have someone hold the door switch closed, press the start button and spin the dryer drum clockwise. If the motor takes off and runs, must be the start winding.

Model #KUDD01DPPA1, This is the dish drawer unit made by Fisher & Paykel for Kitchen Aid, so any problem the F&P has had, this may too. Complaint was water leaking from the unit even before it was used (new unit in a new home). After inspection the water inlet valve was found cracked at the base (can't be seen in the photo, but the water stain can) allowing water to drip into the bottom pan of the dishwasher. Replaced the water valve and now the leak is gone.

Model #ET8MHKXMQ04, This unit had a cooling problem in the refrigerator and a frost build up in the freezer section (see photo). The defrost timer had failed and was not putting the unit into defrost, so the frost was never melted from the evaporator and continued to build up. Once the ice covers the air vents to the fresh food section it will begin to get warmer than normal. Replacing the defrost timer did the trick.

Model #LHW0050PQ4, This is a small front load washer built for Whirlpool and can be found in several brand names. The symptom from the customer was the unit will not run a full cycle. Like most front load washers, if the door switch does not close, the unit will not operate. The switch tested ok, but I have found that the door strikes are getting blocked by the inner door panel preventing it from fully actuating the switch. By removing some of the plastic from where the strike contacts the door, the switch will be allowed to close the switch completely. Just make sure that there is a gap between the strike and the door frame and all should be well.

Model #JE2160BF03, This countertop microwave had a symptom of inconsistant heating. Upon inspection, I found one of the magnets surrounding the magnetron cracked (see photo), thus the mag needs to be replaced. Installed a new magnetron and now the unit heats ok.

Thank you for your submittion. You will be contacted soon.

This is a listing of service websites provided by appliance manufacturers for use by technical professionals and service providers. Some are public sites and my be used by DIY'er, while others are for authorized servicers only and will require a user name and password for access. If you are aware of any other sites that can be added to the list, please let me know.


Asko - includes Eurotech

Avanti

Bosch - includes Thermadore

Dacor

Faber

Fisher & Paykel - includes DCS

Frigidaire - this site includes all Frigidaire products

GE

LG

Service Matters - this site includes all Whirlpool products

Sharp

Subzero - includes Wolf

Thermador - includes Bosch

U-Line

Viking

Most of us are familiar with the larger and more common manufacturers of home appliances, but there are many other lesser knows brands that produce their own specialty products. From kitchen, to refrigeration, ventilation, and laundry, you should be able to find that perfect appliance for your home. Here is my list of the common, and not so common manufacturers of home appliances.



Abbaka Kitchen hoods and ventilation products
Absocold Small to midsized refrigerators and dispensers
Acme Kitchenettes
Aga Ranges, refrigeration, dishwashers, and vents
AirKing Kitchen hoods and ventilation products
Amana Full line appliances
American Ranges and cook tops
Arcelik Full line appliances
Ariston Laundry, dishwashers, and refrigeration products
Asko Laundry and dishwasher products
Avanti Cooking, dishwashers, and refrigeration products
Best Kitchen hoods and ventilation products
Bertazzoni Cooking and ventilation products
Blomberg Full line appliances
Bluestar Cooking products
Bosch Full line appliances
Broan Kitchen hoods and ventilation products
Brown Cooking products
Caldera Cooking products
Chambers Cooking products
Creda Cooking products
Crosley Full line appliances
Dacor Cooking, dishwashers, and refrigeration products
Danby Full line appliances
DCS Cooking products
Delaubrac Cooking products
DeLonghi Cooking products
Diva Cooking products
Earthstone Cooking products
Edgestar Cooking products
Elba Small scale kitchen appliances
Electrolux Full line appliances
Elitair Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Equator Laundry products
Estate Full line appliances
Eurotech Laundry products
Faber Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Fagor Full line appliances
FCI Cooking products
Fedders Room A/C
Fisher & Paykel Full line appliances
Foster Kitchen appliances
Franke Kitchen appliances
Franklin Refrigeration
Friedrich Room A/C
Frigidaire Full line appliances
Fujioh Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Gaggenau Kitchen appliances
GE Full line appliances
Gentec Cooking products
Gladiator Outdoor refrigeration products
Haier Laundry and Refrigeration products
Heartland Cooking products
Hotpoint Full line appliances
Ikea Cooking, dishwashers, ventilation and refrigeration products
ILVE Cooking products
Imperial Cooking products
Independent Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Inglis Full line appliances
Jade Cooking products
Jenn-Air Kitchen appliances
Joneca Disposers
Kenmore Full line appliances
Kenyon Cooking products
Kitchenaid Full line appliances
Klondike Refrigeration products
Kobe Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Kuppersbusch Cooking products
Lacanche Cooking products
Liebherr Refrigeration products
LG Full line appliances
Magic Chef Kitchen appliances
Malber Compact laundry
Marvel Refrigeration products
Maytag Full line appliances
Meridian Compact laundry
Metallo Arts Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Miele Full line appliances
Modern-Aire Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Northland Refrigeration products
NuTone Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Pacair Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Perlick Refrigeration
Porter&Charles Cooking products
Premier Cooking products
Rangecraft Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Roper Full line appliances
Royal Cooking products
Scotsman Ice machines
Seaward Compact kitchen products
Sharp Microwaves
Siemens Full line appliances
Sirius Kitchen hood and Ventilation products
Smeg Cooking products
Speedqueen Laundry products
Splendide Laundry products
Staber Laundry products
Steel Cooking products
Subzero Refrigeration products
Summit Refrigeration products
Swift Kitchen appliances
Thermador Cooking, dishwasher, and refrigeration products
Thor Laundry products
TMIO Cooking products
U-Line Refrigeration products
Vent-a-Hood Kitchen hood and ventilation products
Verona Cooking products
Viking Cooking, refrigeration, and dishwasher products
Vintage Cooking products
WC Wood Refrigeration products
Westinghouse Full line appliances
Windcrest Cooking products
Windster Kitchen hood and ventilation products
Whirlpool Full line appliances
Wolf Cooking products
Zephyr Kitchen hood and ventilation products

Appliance parts online, right part, best price and fast shipping.

Ask your Appliance related Question

TechnicianBrian has partnered with JustAnswer.com to help answer your Appliance related questions. Ask an appliance question and receive an answer from an appliance expert quickly. I believe this is the best source for one-on-one appliance help on the Internet, and all at a very reasonable price. As the customer, you set the price, and only you decide when you are satisfied with the answer. Your question will be posted on the JustAnswer website, so do not include any identifying information (names, addresses, etc.) that you do not want to appear online.


Questions may be answered by TechnicianBrian or select appliance experts on the JustAnswer website. Please direct any questions and/or concerns about the JustAnswer service to JustAnswer Help.

• Your product has been designed to dispose of normal household food waste. When grinding normal household food waste, be sure to run the disposer with a moderate-to-strong flow of cold water, and continue to run the cold water for 15 seconds after grinding is complete to flush the drain line.

• All models can handle everyday food scraps.

• Avoid grinding large amounts of vegetable peels (i.e. potato skins, melons and fruit rinds) at one time. Instead gradually feed vegetable peels in while running the water and the disposer.

• Avoid grinding large amounts of hard materials (i.e. small bones, fruit pits, egg and lobster shells, crab and shrimp shells) at one time. Instead gradually feed hard materials in while running the water and the disposer.

• Do not throw any fibrous materials (i.e. celery, corn husks, artichokes) into the disposer).

IMPORTANT: Do not put items like plastic, glass, china, metal, tin cans, bottle caps, large whole bones or oyster and clam shells, grease, or fat into the disposer. Place these items in the trash.

• Review the product use and care guide for specific food-grinding recommendations for your model.

• It is recommended that you use either the charcoal air filter or the air freshener in the filter compartment. The solid air freshener system is an alternative to the air filter and is designed to control odors that might develop in the trash.

To change the air filter or air freshener:

• Insert fingertips into the air filter cover and pull until the side tabs release. Then, lift the cover to release the bottom tabs.

• Remove the air filter by pulling the top edge of the filter. The filter should pull out easily. Throw away used filter. OR Remove the air freshener by simply lifting it out of the filter compartment. Throw away used freshener.

• To replace the air filter, push the replacement filter into place. OR To replace the air freshener, place the replacement in the filter compartment.

• Insert the bottom tabs of the air filter cover and push in until the side tabs snap into place.

• When the trash is compacted to the top of the drawer, remove the bag. If the bag is too heavy, compact less trash before emptying the compactor in the future.

IMPORTANT: Do not push items down into the compactor with hands or feet.

To remove the filled bag:

• Pull the drawer completely open.

• Remove the top of the bag from the bag retainer buttons. Pull up all four bag cuffs. Close the bag with the twist tie provided.

• Push down the side-lock latch and tilt the drawer side open.

• Lift out the bag.

To install a new bag:

NOTE: Do not use any kind of bag other than those designed especially for use in your compactor.

IMPORTANT: Before installing a new bag, make sure:

• The drawer side is securely locked.

• The container is clean and free of debris.

• Place the folded bag into the drawer. Open the bag and pull the top edges over the drawer top.

• Lock the bag in place by pulling the four pre-punched holes over the bag retainer buttons. Holes will expand over the buttons without damaging the bag.

• For a smooth fit, press the inside of the bag against the drawer bottom, sides and corners.

To load the compactor:

IMPORTANT: Do not push items down into compactor with hands or feet.

NOTE: You will not see compacting of trash the first few times you load the compactor. The compactor drawer should be about half full before the compactor can begin to compress the load.

• Open the drawer. Lift and pull the handle or press the toe bar to open the drawer.

NOTE: Pressing the toe bar opens the container only 3" to 6" (7.6 cm to 15.2 cm), depending on the load.

• Place trash in compactor.

• Wrap or cover wet or messy trash.

• Do not compact items that may develop offensive odors such as raw meat, fish, grapefruit rinds, disposable diapers or personal hygiene items.

• Load bottles or cans on their sides in the center of the drawer. Do not load bottles in an upright position.

• Close the drawer.

Cleaning the compactor

• Before cleaning the compactor, turn the key-knob (or key-dwitch) to the Off & Lock position, and remove it.

To clean exterior stainless steel surfaces:

• Wash surfaces with warm, soapy water using liquid detergent or an all-purpose cleaner and a nonabrasive sponge. Always rub evenly in the direction of the grain.

• Rinse with clean water and dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.

• To restore its luster, apply a layer of stainless steel polish; follow the recommendations and directions on the label. Wipe excess polish and use special care to avoid contact with any plastic parts, trim pieces or rubber door gaskets. If the polish does contact any of these plastic parts, clean them with a nonabrasive sponge and mild detergent in warm water. Thoroughly dry the area with a soft cloth.

• Use a clean, dry towel to polish the surface in the direction of the grain until it shines.

IMPORTANT: To avoid damage to the finish, do not use soap-filled scouring pads, abrasive or harsh cleaners, any cleaning product containing chlorine bleach, steel-wool pads, gritty wash cloths or certain paper towels.

To clean painted metal surfaces:

• Wash exterior surfaces with a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners.

• Rinse and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

• To keep your painted appliance surfaces looking like new use appliance polish and cleaner regularly. This wax-based cleaner and polish goes on easy to remove unwanted grime and dirt and leaves behind a sparkling shine.

To clean inside the drawer:

NOTE: You may want to wear protective gloves since there may be bits of glass in the drawer.

• Remove the bag.

• Press down on the lever-action lock (or side-lock latch).

• Hold the lever-action lock down and tilt the side of the drawer out until the lock clears the drawer front.

NOTE: If desired, the drawer side can be removed by tilting it up and then lifting it out.

• Wash the interior of the drawer with a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Rinse and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

• If the drawer side was removed, slide it back into the tilted position.

• Press down the lever-action lock (or side-lock latch) while pushing the drawer side to the upright position.

• Latch the drawer side by pushing up the lever-action lock (or side-lock latch).

To clean inside the cabinet:

NOTE: You may want to wear protective gloves since there may be bits of glass in the cabinet.

• Pull out the drawer until it stops.

NOTE: Look to see how the drawer rollers move in the tracks. It will be easier to replace the drawer after you have finished cleaning.

• Lift the front of the drawer to clear the stops.

• Grasp the drawer on the sides and pull it out the rest of the way. Gently set down the drawer.

• Vacuum the inside of the cabinet. Liquid spills or wet trash should be cleaned by hand, or by using a vacuum designed to pick up liquids.

• Wash the inside of the cabinet with a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Rinse and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

• To replace the drawer, grasp it by the sides and insert the rollers onto the tracks.

• Lift the front of the drawer and push it in fully, past the stops.

To clean the ram:

NOTE: You may want to wear protective gloves since there may be bits of glass on the ram cover.

• Wipe glass particles off of the ram cover with a cloth or paper towel.
Remove foods with a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Rinse and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

If the drawer won't open, check the following.

Is the ram all the way up?

• Drawer will open only when ram is fully raised.

To raise the ram on models with a key-knob (or key-switch):

•T urn the key-knob (key-switch) to Start and release. See “Starting your compactor” in your Use and Care Guide.

To raise the ram on models with push button controls:

• Press Off, and then press On. See “Starting your compactor” in your Use and Care Guide.

Is the Solid Cycle engaged?

• Drawer remains Locked until you reset by lifting up the foot pedal. If you still have a problem with your appliance, you may need an authorized service technician to assist you.

How your compactor works

• The compacting ram is the part of the compactor which compresses the trash. The compacting ram does not go to the bottom of the drawer. You will not see compacting of trash the first few times you load the compactor.

NOTE: The compactor drawer should be more than half full before the compactor can begin to compress the load. You may hear a noise when glass breaks. Strong glass bottles may not break at all. The trash in a full compactor bag will be about one quarter the size of its original bulk.

• Load bulky trash, bottles, and cans in the center of the drawer. Bottles or cans not placed in the center may become caught between the ram and the drawer. The Drawer Monitor Switch then senses a “misload” and causes the ram to return to the “up” position without compacting.

Did you press On before pressing Start?

• Press On before pressing Start (on some models). For additional information, review your specific Use and Care Guide.

Is the power supply cord unplugged?

• Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.

Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?

• Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the problem continues, call an electrician.

Is the key-knob turned all the way to Start?

• Turn the key-knob (key-switch) fully to Start and release (on some models).

Is the drawer completely closed?

• Firmly close the drawer and start the compactor again. During compaction, certain loaded items could be forced towards the front of the door which could cause the door to open slightly. If you cannot get the door fully closed, you may need to contact a technician for assistance.

Continuous-feed operating instructions

• Remove cover from sink opening and turn on a good flow of Cold water. It is absolutely necessary that cold water flows into the disposer while it is in operation.

• Cold water hardens greasy substances, which makes it easy to grind them into tiny particles. Cold water also keeps grease from sticking to the drain lines. If you have a double sink, make sure the faucet is positioned to the side where the disposer is installed during disposer operation.

• Scrape food waste into the disposer opening. Mix soft and hard food waste items for most efficient grinding.

• Tilt cover and place it in the sink opening. This allows for maximum water flow to aid in grinding and minimizes ejection of materials during the grinding process.

• Turn wall switch to "on" position.

• Allow both the disposer and cold water to run after grinding is completed to help flush drain pipes. Ground waste and water flow at an approximate rate of 2 seconds/foot in a pitched horizontal drain pipe. The water flow time after grinding will depend on the quantity of ground food and the length of the horizontal drain pipe.

• Turn wall switch to the "off" position, and allow cold water to run for up to 15 seconds to flush the drain line.

IMPORTANT: Use only cold water when operating the disposer. Cold water hardens greasy substances, which makes it easy to grind them into tiny particles. Cold water also keeps grease from sticking to the drain lines. It is okay to drain Hot water into the disposer between grinding periods.

• After some use, food particles may accumulate in the grind chamber and baffle. An odor from the disposer is usually a sign of grease and food buildup, which is caused by insufficient water flow during and after disposer use.

• Do not "store" food waste in the grinding chamber between use to avoid odor, a clogged drain, or a jammed disposer.

To clean the disposer with a baking soda mix:

• Turn off disposer and disconnect power supply.

• Place stopper in sink opening and fill sink halfway with warm water.

• Mix 1 cup (240 ml) baking soda with the warm water.

• Turn on disposer and remove stopper from the sink to wash away loose particles. This will flood the inside of the disposer to wash away particles loosened during this cleaning operation.

The unintended entry of foreign material can cause any disposer to jam. In the unlikely event the disposer becomes jammed, release it by following these steps:

• Turn the wall switch to the “off” position and turn off cold water.

• Insert an end of your jam breaker wrench (provided with your disposer) into the center hole of the bottom of the disposer.

• Work the wrench back and forth until it moves freely for at least one complete revolution. Remove wrench before restarting disposer.

• Remove the foreign object(s) with long-handled tongs.

• Allow the motor to cool 3 - 5 minutes then lightly push the red reset button.

IMPORTANT: Before pressing the reset button, make sure the wall switch is in the “off” position or, on batch feed models, remove the stopper from the “run” position.

• Restart the disposer by turning on the water and power.

• If the disposer remains inoperative, check the service panel for tripped breakers or fuses.

• Should the disposer still not operate, contact a local service provider for assistance.

Surface of downdraft vent:

• Clean with soap and water. Do not use scouring powder or abrasive solutions.

To clean the painted metal exterior surface of the convertible range hood:

• Clean the range hood with a mild detergent and soft cloth. Do not use abrasive cleansers or steel wool pads.

• To keep your painted appliance surfaces looking like new use appliance polish and cleaner regularly. This wax-based cleaner and polish goes on easy to remove unwanted grime and dirt and leaves behind a sparkling shine.

To clean the stainless steel surface of the convertible range hood:

• Wash surfaces with warm, soapy water using liquid detergent or an all-purpose cleaner and a nonabrasive sponge. Always rub evenly in the direction of the grain.

• Rinse with clean water and dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.

• To restore its luster, apply a layer of stainless steel polish; follow the recommendations and directions on the label. Wipe excess polish and use special care to avoid contact with any plastic parts, trim pieces or rubber door gaskets. If the polish does contact any of these plastic parts, clean them with a nonabrasive sponge and mild detergent in warm water. Thoroughly dry the area with a soft cloth.

• Use a clean, dry towel to polish the surface in the direction of the grain until it shines.

• It is important to frequently remove and clean the filters in the retractable section of the downdraft vent as this will improve the operating efficiency of the downdraft vent system.

• Remove the filter(s) and clean them in the dishwasher or in a hot detergent solution. Do not use the downdraft vent when the filter(s) are not in place.

• Reinstall the clean filter(s), and make sure that they are pushed in as far as they will go.

NOTE: Downdraft vent will not operate if filter(s) are not in the proper position. If the handle(s) are not fully locked, the vent may retract but not raise back up.

If the retractable downdraft vent does not operate after clean filters have been reinstalled:

• Push in the filter as far as it will go.

• When the filter is removed, the microswitch behind the filter is inactivated. This safety feature stops the blower and raising mechanism until the filter is properly reinstalled.

Is there excessive frost or a package preventing the door from closing?

• Defrost and clean the freezer, or move the package so the door closes properly.

Is the room temperature hotter than normal?

• The motor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, your motor will run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more of the time.

Has a large amount of food just been added to the freezer?

• Adding a large amount of food warms the freezer. The motor normally will run longer to cool the freezer back down. Add no more unfrozen food at one time than will freeze in 24 hours, approximately 2 to 3 lbs (0.9 to 1.4 kg) per cubic foot of freezer space.

Is the door opened often?

• The motor will run longer when this occurs. Conserve energy by getting all items out at one time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as soon as possible.

Is the control set correctly for the surrounding conditions?

• See: Control use for upright freezer.

Is the door or not closed completely?

• Push the door firmly shut. If it will not shut all the way, rearrange containers so that they take up less space and put shelves and baskets back into their correct positions.

Are the condenser coils dirty (on some models)?

• This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils.

Is the door gasket sealed all the way around?

• Contact a qualified person or a technician.

• Small ice droplets on the freezer walls and on the back panel are normal.

• Frost will likely build up if the door is left open for a period of time. Make sure the door is closing completely and is not blocked by something between the door gasket and cabinet.

• Frequent door openings can let in humid room air. Keeping door openings to a minimum will help, but may not completely eliminate frost or ice in the freezer.

•During months of high humidity (especially if a home is not air-conditioned), it is normal to see some frost and sweating on the interior walls or on food packages.

Heavy sheet of ice on the back panel

• A heavy sheet of ice on the freezer back panel is likely an indication of a defrosting problem. If ice buildup continues, call a technician for assistance.

Frost buildup around the exterior door or on the ceiling

• Frost buildup around the door or on the ceiling suggests an air leak, likely due to a gasket problem.

• The door gasket should seal all the way around on the door. Make sure that nothing is keeping the gasket from making a good seal.

Are the air vents blocked?

• This obstructs cold air movement. Move objects away from the air vents.
See “Ensuring proper air circulation” below for air vent locations.

Is the door opened often?

• Be aware that the freezer will warm when this occurs. In order to keep the freezer cool, try to get everything you need out of the freezer at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed.

Has a large amount of food just been added to the freezer?

• Adding a large amount of food warms the freezer. It can take several hours for the freezer to return to the normal temperature.

Is the control set correctly for the surrounding conditions?

• See “Using the control” below.

Ensuring proper air circulation:

• In order to ensure proper temperature, you need to permit proper airflow in the freezer. Cool air enters through the freezer wall and moves downward.

• The air then recirculates through the vent near the bottom. Do not block any of these vents with food packages. If the vents are blocked, airflow will be obstructed, and temperature and moisture problems may occur.

Using the control:

• Turn the freezer temperature control to a numbered setting. Allow the freezer to cool six to eight hours before filling with frozen food.

• The middle setting (typically "4") is designed to maintain the temperature at or near 0°F (-17.8°C) under normal operating conditions.

• Let the freezer cool overnight before adding large amounts of unfrozen food. Never add more than two to three pounds (907 to 1,350 g) of unfrozen food per cubic foot (28.32 L) of freezer space.

NOTE: When the freezer is first started, the compressor will run constantly until the freezer is cooled. It may take up to six to eight hours (or longer), depending on room temperature and the number of times the freezer door is opened. After the freezer is cooled, the compressor will turn on and off as needed to keep the freezer at the proper temperature. The outside of your freezer may feel warm. This is normal. The freezer’s design and main function is to remove heat from packages and air space inside the freezer. The heat is transferred to the room air, making the outside of the freezer feel warm.

Is the power supply cord unplugged?

• Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.

Has a household fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped?

• Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.

Is the Temperature Control turned to the OFF position?

• See “Using the Control" below.

Is the freezer defrosting (on some models)?

• Some models regularly run an automatic defrost cycle. Recheck to see whether the freezer is operating in 30 minutes.

Using the control:

• Turn the freezer temperature control to a numbered setting. Allow the freezer to cool six to eight hours before filling with frozen food.

• The middle setting (typically "4") is designed to maintain the temperature at or near 0°F (-17.8°C) under normal operating conditions.

• Let the freezer cool overnight before adding large amounts of unfrozen food. Never add more than two to three pounds (907 to 1,350 g) of unfrozen food per cubic foot (28.32 L) of freezer space.

NOTE: When the freezer is first started, the compressor will run constantly until the freezer is cooled. It may take up to six to eight hours (or longer), depending on room temperature and the number of times the freezer door is opened. After the freezer is cooled, the compressor will turn on and off as needed to keep the freezer at the proper temperature. The outside of your freezer may feel warm. This is normal. The freezer’s design and main function is to remove heat from packages and air space inside the freezer. The heat is transferred to the room air, making the outside of the freezer feel warm.

Use only powder, liquid or tablet detergent designed specifically for automatic dishwashers.

• Any other types may cause a sudsing and as a result, poor wash performance and possibly suds and water on your kitchen floor.

Use the right amount of detergent for the job.

• Soft hot water requires less detergent - perhaps a quarter of a cup in the main cup.

• Very hard water requires a full main cup and a full open cup to get good wash performance.

• Conditions between these require judgment. Use enough to get the job done, but don't use more than you need.

Too much detergent in very soft water will cause etching of glassware.

• This is a permanent clouding of the glass. If you experience this condition, use less detergent.

Keep your detergent fresh and dry.

• Store the detergent in container away from moisture to prevent lumps.

•Do not put detergent in the cup until you are ready to run a cycle.

•If powder detergent gets old or lumpy, throw it out; it will not clean effectively. Liquid detergents do not age.

Is there a new plastic smell?

• This is a normal smell and should dissipate with time. Run a white vinegar rinse to reduce the odor:

• Wash and rinse dishes. Do not use a heated dry option. Use an air-dry or an energy-saving dry option. Remove all silverware or metal items.

• Put 2 cups (500 mL) of white vinegar in a glass or dishwasher-safe measuring cup on the bottom rack.

• Run the dishwasher through a complete washing cycle using an air-dry or an energy-saving dry option. Do not use detergent. The vinegar will mix with the wash water.

• Run the dishwasher through a normal cycle with detergent after cleaning the interior.

Are dishes washed only every two or three days?

• Run a rinse cycle once or twice a day until you have a full load.

Is there a petroleum smell?

• This is a normal smell. Some models have sound-deadening material that smells like petroleum.

Is there a varnish smell?

• This is a typical motor smell. Some motor windings are treated with a varnish. This smell will wear off in approximately one month.

Is there a burnt plastic smell?

• Possible cause: Plastic parts have fallen onto the heating element during a cycle.

• Solution: Remove plastic parts from heater after it has cooled. After a few cycles, the excess plastic will burn off.

• Possible cause: Plastics washed were not dishwasher safe.

• Solution: Wash only dishwasher-safe plastics in the dishwasher.

Is there a musty, spoiled smell?

• Standing water in the dishwasher can cause this smell. See also “Why isn’t my dishwasher draining.”

Was the Heated Dry option selected?

• Use the Heated Dry option for better drying results.

Was rinse aid used?

• Your dishwasher is designed to use rinse aid for good drying performance. Without rinse aid, your dishes and dishwasher interior will have excessive moisture.

• The heat dry option will not perform as well without rinse aid. Rinse aid improves drying and reduces water spots and filming. Water "sheets" off dishes rather than forming water droplets that cling and leave spots.

Is the rinse aid dispenser empty?

• Make sure the rinse aid dispenser is full. Use a rinse agent to remove the mineral residue that creates water spots and film on dishes and begin enjoying spot-free table ready dishes after every wash.

Were items loaded incorrectly?

• Load items at an angle. This is very important, especially for plastic items. Also, some water may be left in the bottom of concave cups and mugs.

Is the water temperature too low?

• For best results, the water should be 120° F as it enters the dishwasher. Loads may not wash as well if the water temperature is too low.

• Water that is too hot can make some soils harder to remove and cause certain detergent ingredients to not function.

• If your water heater is located far from the dishwasher, it may be necessary to run the hot water at the faucet closest to the dishwasher to minimize the amount of cold water in the water line.

Check the water pressure.

• The water pressure to the dishwasher should be 20 - 120 PSI (3/8" O.D. copper water line or 1/2" O.D. plastic water line).

Check the wash cycle selection.

• Select the appropriate cycle for the dish load. Selecting a short or light wash cycle may save water and energy, but may not provide proper wash action for a heavily soiled load. If food soils remain on the dishware after the cycle, a longer cycle may be required. Please consult the Owner's Manual.

Check the water temperature.

• Proper water temperature is essential to achieve optimum results from your dishwasher and the detergent. Hot water is needed to dissolve and activate the detergent so that it can loosen and remove common food soils.

The hot water heater should be set to deliver at least 120 degree Fahrenheit water to the dishwasher.

• To check the water temperature, run the hot water at the kitchen sink and measure the temperature of the running water with a candy or meat thermometer. Adjust the temperature of the water heater accordingly.

Be sure that the dishwasher is filling with the hottest possible water.

• Run the hot water faucet at the kitchen sink prior to operating the dishwasher. Also, avoid running the dishwasher while hot water is being used for other activities.

Check the amount of detergent and the water hardness.

• The amount of detergent needed depends upon: water hardness, the amount of food soils left on the dish load, and the temperature of the water going into the dishwasher.

Use a rinse agent.

• Rinse agents promote wash and dry performance by causing the water to sheet off of the ware inside the dishwasher. This prevents water spots from forming on the glassware and dishware.

Check the dishwasher loading.

• Make sure dishes are loaded properly to insure that water can reach all of the soiled surfaces in both racks. Please consult the Owner's Manual for proper loading patterns for your specific dishwasher model.

Excessive amounts of food may clog the dishwasher filters and reduce wash performance.

• In models without extending wash towers, the spray arm may be removed to check the fine filter underneath. Gently lift up the spray arm while rotating it counter clockwise about 90 degrees. This will "unscrew" the arm and permit its removal.

Inspect the fine filter. It should be clean.

• If the fine filter is not clean, contact our service department. To prevent this from happening, scrape dishes before placing them in the dishwasher. It is not necessary to pre-wash your dishes, just scrape off the big chunks.

Is the water temperature above 160° F?

• If the water temperature is higher than 160° F, lower the water heater thermostat setting to 120° F. If extremely high-temperature water is used, water tends to leak at the very beginning of the cycle in a cold dishwasher.

Is the dishwasher level?

• Make sure the dishwasher is level. The dishwasher must be supported by the leveling legs and rear wheels and must be flat on the floor.

NOTE: Some models will have four leveling legs. The dishwasher must also be square in the cabinet. If the tub opening is not square, the door will not seal properly. This is the responsibility of the customer or installer.

Is water pooling at the base of the unit?

• Check that the water supply line is properly connected.

Is water dripping from the front of the unit?

• Check for oversudsing which may appear as a leak from the corners.

Was the lower rack empty?

• If no dishes were in the lower rack, the dishwasher may leak because of the spray directly hitting the door.

Was something in the rack (such as a pan) facing the door seal?

• Water could have deflected off the pan and through the seal.

Is the door open or unlatched?

• Make sure the door is completely closed and latched.

Is the water supply valve turned off?

• The water supply valve must be turned on for the dishwasher to fill.

Is the overfill protection float restricted?

• Remove obstructions from the float area. Move the float up and down to see if it moves freely. The overfill protection float (in the front right corner of the dishwasher tub) keeps the dishwasher from overfilling. It must be in place for the dishwasher to operate.

Does your dishwasher have a rotary timer knob?

• The cycle selection must match the position of the timer knob. Turn the timer knob to the beginning of the preferred cycle. The timer knob should click into place.

Is the dishwasher immediately draining as it is trying to fill?

• Your dishwasher could be siphoning. Create a loop in the drain hose at least 20" (50.8 cm) above the floor.

• Make sure the drain hose is looped so that it touches the underside of the counter before connecting to the sink drain or disposer.

• Use or install an air gap if the drain hose is connected to house plumbing lower than 20" (50.8 cm) above the subfloor or floor.

Is the door open or unlatched?

• Make sure the door is completely closed and latched.

Is the selected cycle incomplete?

• Press Cancel/Drain to try and drain the standing water.

Is the water level just covering the pump module?

• This is normal. A small amount of water will be seen in the bottom of the sump area at the base of the pump. This is to ensure that the pump seal does not dry out.

Is there a new garbage disposal?

• Make sure the knockout plug is removed in the new disposal. For many dishwashers, the drain hose is connected to the disposal. The knockout plug must be removed from inside the food waste disposer inlet.

Is the drain system blocked?

• Run the disposer to clear the drain system.

Do you have an air gap at your sink?

• Check to see if the air gap is blocked by foreign material. To clean the drain air gap, follow the cleaning instructions provided by the manufacturer. With most types, you lift off the chrome cover, unscrew the plastic cap, and then check for any soil buildup. Clean if necessary.

Is there a loop in the drain hose less than 20" above the floor?

• Make sure the drain hose is looped up so that it touches the underside of the counter before connecting to the sink drain or disposer.

Is there a kink in the drain hose?

• Replace a kinked drain hose.

Did you reuse an existing drain hose?

• Make sure to use the new drain hose that came with the dishwasher.

Is the sink drain clogged?

• If the sink is not draining well, a plumber may need to be contacted. Most dishwashers connect to the sink drain. If the sink drain is clogged, the dishwasher can't pump out water.

Is the door open or unlatched?

• Make sure the door is completely closed and latched. Check for obstructions (spoons, etc), interfering with the door operation. A lower dish rack that is installed backward will also cause incomplete door closure.

Is there power to the dishwasher?

• Check your household electrical box to see if a fuse has blown or if the circuit breaker has tripped. If the unit has a plug-in power cord, make sure it is plugged in.

Does your dishwasher have a rotary timer knob? (Some models)

• The cycle selection must match the position of the timer knob. Turn the timer knob to the beginning of the preferred cycle. The timer knob should click when you reach the start of the cycle.

Is the control lock option activated?

• Press and hold the Heated Dry option (button with lock icon) for five seconds and the light should turn off. Instructions are also placed on the label on top of the inner door to unlock the controls.

Is the delay start option activated?

• To cancel the delay and cycle, press Cancel/Drain.

Has the motor stopped for less than 10 minutes?

• The motor may have stopped due to an overload. If this is the case, the motor will automatically reset itself within 5-10 minutes.

Is the water shutoff valve (if installed) turned on?

• Make sure that the water shutoff valve is turned on.

• Make sure that the microwave is plugged into a grounded outlet. It must be a 3-prong outlet.

• Make sure the clock is set.

• Check to see if a programming sequence was entered. Sometimes improper programming or a program sequence such as delay start can cause the touch panel to be non-responsive. Unplug microwave or turn off house circuit breaker for 30 seconds. Plug back in, or reset circuit breaker, and try reprogramming unit.

• Check the house circuit breaker or fuse box. If the microwave is DEAD and there is no display and nothing works- the problem could be a blown fuse or tripped breaker.

• The turntable can rotate in either direction to help cook food more evenly. Do not operate the oven without having the turntable in place.

Has the tape been removed from turntable hub?

To install turntable:

• Remove tape from the hub.

• Place the support on the oven cavity bottom.

• Place the turntable on the support. Fit the raised, curved lines in the center of the turntable bottom between the three spokes of the hub. The rollers on the support should fit inside the turntable bottom ridge.

Is the turntable properly in place?

• Make sure turntable is correct side up and is sitting securely on the turntable support.

Is the turntable support operating properly?

• Remove turntable. Remove and clean turntable support and rollers. Replace turntable support. Replace turntable. Place one cup (250 mL) of water on the turntable; then restart microwave oven. If it still is not working, contact a technician for service.

*Do not operate the microwave oven without the turntable and turntable support working properly.

To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

To replace the oven light in most models:

• Disconnect the power at the main fuse or circuit breaker or pull the plug.

• Remove the top grill by taking out the two screws that hold it in place.

• Remove the screw that secures the light housing. It is located above the door near the center of the oven.

• Replace the bulb with a like bulb.

• Replace the light housing screw and grill.

• Connect the electrical power to the oven.

• Condensation inside the unit is normal and especially prevalent when cooking foods of high moisture content for extended periods of time either inside the microwave or on a cooktop beneath an over the range microwave.

• Steam and vapor escaping from around the door is normal.

• If minimal moisture is noticed between the glass, allow the microwave door to stand open for approximately 15 minutes to accelerate the dissipation of the moisture. If the moisture does not evaporate in a reasonable amount of time, contact a technician for assistance.

• To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug the microwave from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

• Spills and spatters clean up easily with a damp, soapy paper towel or sponge. It is best to clean soil as soon as it appears. Baking soda and water may also be used.

• If the food has cooked onto the interior, heat one cup of water on full power for three minutes. The heat and steam help to soften the food. After the three minutes, allow five additional minutes stand time then clean as usual. A non-abrasive scrubbing pad cleaner works well for stubborn stains.

• You may use mild dish washing liquid or cleaners specifically listed for cleaning interiors of microwave ovens.

• For stainless steel interiors of microwave/convection models, we recommend a plastic, soap-filled scouring pad. Rubbing gently with this pad will help remove soil.

• For the door surfaces (both interior and exterior), we recommend you use only mild, non-abrasive soaps, or detergents applied with a sponge, or soft cloth.

• For the control panel wipe with a soft, damp cloth. Dry immediately with a soft cloth. Do not spray any solution directly onto the controls.

Follow the directions below to determine if a dish or utensil is microwave safe.

• Fill a cup with water.

• Place the cup in the oven on or beside the utensil in question.

• Microwave for one minute on high.

• If the water becomes hot and the dish remains cool, the dish is microwave safe. If the dish heats up, it should not be used for microwaving.

Note: You cannot have one cup of water in the microwave with a power level of 10 for more than two minutes. If you leave it for more than 2 minutes, there is a higher risk of spontaneous boiling.

• If both items fit in the oven without placing water on the utensil, the test results will be more apparent. This happens because some heat will be generated downward and the utensil may become warm. This would be a normal condition.

• Aluminum foil and some metal can be used in the oven. If not used properly, arcing (a blue flash of light) can occur and cause damage to the microwave oven.

Metals approved for use

Racks and bakeware supplied with the microwave oven (on some models), aluminum foil for shielding, and approved meat thermometers may be used with the following guidelines:

• Do not allow aluminum foil or metal to touch the inside cavity walls, ceiling or floor.

• Always use the turntable.

• Always use the turntable.

• Do not allow contact with another metal object during cooking.

Metals not approved for use

Do not use the following metal in microwave ovens:

• Metal cookware and bakeware

• Gold, silver, pewter

• Non-approved meat thermometers

• Skewers

• Twist ties

• Foil liners such as sandwich wrappers

• Staples

• Objects with gold or silver trim or a metallic glaze

Is the door completely closed?

• Firmly close the door.

Is the electronic oven control set correctly?

• See “Microwave oven control” section in your Use & Care Guide. If you do not have your Use & Care Guide.

Is the magnetron working properly?

• Try to heat one cup (250 mL) of cold water for two minutes at 100% cooking power. If water does not heat, please contact a technician for service.
Child Lock (on some models)

If the vent on your cooktop doesn't seem to be working properly, the following may be why:

• Exhaust fan is not turned on.

• Vent filters are not clean or are not in place.

• Vent duct or outside opening is blocked.

• There is a draft in the room where the cooktop is installed.

• Vent system has not been installed according to the installation instructions.

Are the control knobs set correctly?

• The surface cooking area locator shows which element is turned on. Use the temperature setting guide in the Use & Care guide when setting heat levels.

Are you using the correct size burner for cookware?

• Use the small burners for simmering and cooking small quantities of food requiring smaller cookware.

• Use the large burners for boiling, deep fat frying and cooking large quantities of food requiring larger cookware.

Are you using proper cookware?

• See tips on proper cookware to use on your cooktop.

• For best results your cookware should be perfectly flat on the bottom.

• Using a pan too large or too small for a cooking area can impact cooking performance.

• As a rule, your cookware should not overlap the heat zone by more than one inch on each side.

• Choose the heat zone closest to the pan size.

Do you have your control knob set on the highest temperature?

• Set burner switch to highest setting.

Are all the cooktop indicator lights on after power was turned on to the cooktop?

• It is normal for an electronic tap touch-controlled glass cooktop to have its hot indicator lights come on when power is turned on from the breaker.

• This ensures the cooktop has properly cooled before turning off the hot warning lights. Indicator lights will remain on up to 30 to 40 minutes.

Is the cooktop “on” light on?

• Push in and turn a knob to a setting.

• The cooktop “on” indicator light is located on the right side of the control panel. The light will glow when any surface control knob is turned on.

• The indicator light will go off when all control knobs have been turned off, even when one or more surface cooking areas are still hot.

Is the Hot Surface light on?

• This light, located above the knob, is a Hot Surface light. It will illuminate when the burner surface heats up. It will stay illuminated until the surface burner cools down.

• This light could stay on for up to two hours after the burner has been turned off, depending on how long it takes to cool down.

Are the controls set correctly?

• Push in knob before turning to a setting.
For coil element models, is the element inserted properly?

• Turn off the unit and fully reinsert the element into the receptacle.
For electronic touch pad models, have you accidentally set the control lock?

• Press down and hold the control lock button for 5 seconds to unlock the control lock. The light next to the lock should turn off. If it still appears to be locked, turn off the power to the cooktop for a minute, and then turn power back on to reset the controls.

• If the burner igniters are clicking in the “off” position, make sure the knob is turned completely to the “off” position and the knob has popped back out.

• It is normal to hear multiple burners click when only one ignites.

• Moisture after cleaning can also cause the igniters to click intermittently. Let the unit dry for a few hours.

• If clicking noises persists, contact our service department for assistance or to make an appointment.

IMPORTANT: Do not leave empty cookware on a hot surface cooking area, element or surface burner. Ideal cookware should have a flat bottom, straight sides, a well-fitting lid, and the material should be of medium-to-heavy thickness.

• Cookware material is a factor in how quickly and evenly heat is transferred, which affects cooking results. A nonstick finish has the same characteristics as its base material. For example, aluminum cookware with a nonstick finish will take on the properties of aluminum.

Use the following information as a guide for cookware material:

• Aluminum
Heats quickly and evenly.
Suitable for all types of cooking.
Medium or heavy thickness is best for most cooking tasks.

• Cast iron
Heats slowly and evenly.
Good for browning and frying.
Maintains heat for slow cooking.

• Ceramic
Follow manufacturer’s instructions.
Heats slowly, but unevenly.
Ideal results on low to medium heat settings.

• Copper
Heats very quickly and evenly.

• Earthenware
Follow manufacturer’s instructions.
Use on low heat settings.

• Porcelain enamel-on-steel or cast iron
See stainless steel or cast iron.

• Stainless steel
Heats quickly, but unevenly.
A core or base of aluminum or copper on stainless steel provides even heating.

To avoid damaging the cooktop, follow these instructions to preserve the uniquely elegant look of your ceramic surface unit:

• Do not store jars or cans above the cooktop.

• Dropping a heavy or hard object onto the cooktop could crack the cooktop. Use special care with heavy skillets.

• Do not leave a hot lid on the cooktop. As the cooktop cools, air can become trapped between the lid and the cooktop, and the ceramic glass could break when the lid is removed.

• For foods containing sugar in any form, clean all spills and soils as soon as possible. Allow the cooktop to cool slightly and then, while wearing oven mitts, remove the spills while the surface is still warm. If sugary spills are allowed to cool, they can adhere to the cooktop and can cause pitting and permanent marks.

• Do not slide cookware or bakeware across the cooktop. Aluminum or copper bottoms and rough finishes on cookware or bakeware could leave scratches or marks on the cooktop.

• Do not cook popcorn in prepackaged aluminum containers on the cooktop. They could leave aluminum marks that cannot be completely removed.

• Do not allow objects that could melt, such as plastic or aluminum foil, to touch any part of the cooktop surface.

• Do not use the cooktop as a cutting board.

• Use cookware about the same size as the surface cooking area. Cookware should not extend more than ½" (1.3 cm) outside the area.

Is the burner wet from cleaning?

• Allow the burner to completely dry. You might want to speed up the drying process by blowing cool air on the area using a hair blow dryer.

• If burner ports are clogged, refer to your Use and Care Guide for sealed surface burners cleaning recommendations.

Are the burner ports clogged?

• If burner ports are clogged, refer to your Use and Care Guide for sealed surface burners cleaning recommendations.

Do all burners fail to light?

• Check to see if the cooktop is connected to the gas supply and the gas shutoff is turned on.

• If you are not connected to gas, have a qualified gas technician connect the appliance to gas.

• If you are connected to gas and have verified gas is available at the appliance, contact our service department for assistance.

Do you hear a sparking sound?

• If there are sparking sounds, the igniter may not be sparking to the burner cap.

• Turn off the appliance and check to make sure the caps are set on the correct burner base properly.

• Do not switch the caps from one burner to another as they may not spark properly. Each burner has its own individual cap.

• Self-clean the oven before it becomes heavily soiled. Heavy soil results in longer cleaning and more smoke.

• Keep the kitchen well-ventilated during the self-cleaning cycle to help get rid of heat, odors and smoke.

To clean and care for your stainless steel surfaces, follow these suggestions:

• Wash surfaces with warm, soapy water using liquid detergent or an all-purpose cleaner and a nonabrasive sponge. Always rub evenly in the direction of the grain.

• Rinse with clean water and dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.

• To restore its luster, apply a layer of stainless steel polish; follow the recommendations and directions on the polish label. Wipe excess polish and use special care to avoid contact with any plastic parts, trim pieces or rubber door gaskets. If polish does contact any of these plastic parts, clean them with a nonabrasive sponge and mild detergent in warm water. Thoroughly dry the area with a soft cloth.

• Use a clean, dry towel to polish the surface in the direction of the grain until it shines.

IMPORTANT: To avoid damage to the finish, do not use soap-filled scouring pads, abrasive or harsh cleaners, any cleaning product containing chlorine bleach, steel-wool pads, gritty wash cloths or certain paper towels.

• Make sure the correct burner is selected, matching the burner to the correct switch.

• Make sure the burner cap is not loose. If your range has sealed burners, make sure the burner cap is seated properly, is not tilted, and does not rock or wobble. Also, make sure the cap matches the burner. Your range may have one or more burners that are different sizes. You need to make sure that a small burner cap is not on a large burner or that a large burner cap is not on a small burner.

• Check to see if there is power to the range. Make sure the range is plugged-in and inspect circuit breakers or fuses.

Things to try if none of these solved the problem:

• Try turning on the oven. If it comes on, but no burners work, then you will need to contact a technician.

• Make sure you turned the burner knob to the Lite position. Only after a flame is visible around the burner should the knob be turned to the desired cooking setting.

• Check the burner heads for dirt and debris. If some of the burners work, lift the range cooktop on non-sealed burner models, and check the malfunctioning burner heads for dirt or debris that may be clogging the holes. Carefully clean out any stopped-up holes with mild soap and water. Be sure to dry burner heads thoroughly before re-installing.

• When the surface burners are turned “on” and if the igniters do not click, we recommend that you contact a technician.

• See if the burner could be loose. Some ranges have plug-in burners and the burners can become loose in the socket. Unplug the burner, then reinstall to fully seated position.

• Make sure the correct burner is selected, matching the correct burner to the proper switch

• Make sure the pan has a flat, smooth bottom. For smooth-top radiant ranges and ranges with solid disk surface burner elements, it is essential that the pan have a flat, smooth bottom for proper operation. If the pan is not flat, the heat sensors built into these elements will prematurely cycle and turn off the heat to the element.

• If the top burners do not work, but the clock does work, your appliance may be wired improperly, contact your installer for further assistance.

• Check circuit breakers/fuses and power cord. On most slide in and free standing ranges, it will be necessary to pull out the lower drawer to access the plug and verify is connected securely (for others, sliding the appliance out from the wall would be necessary). For safety, make sure the circuit breaker or fuse is disconnected before checking the power cord for a loose connection. If the power cord is connected securely, your oven may be wired improperly.

• Check the burner. If one burner doesn't heat, remove it and plug it into another burner receptacle of the same size. Then, turn on that element. If it still does not work, the element will need to be replaced.

• If none of the burners work, but the oven bakes and broils, it may be necessary to contact a technician.

Electric Ranges:

• Make sure the oven vent is not misplaced or covered. On ranges with coils (not smooth top cooktop), the oven vents from beneath the right rear burner. When the oven is in use, heat is exhausted under that coil. If the vent opening on the burner bowl is turned the wrong way, heat from the oven will divert under the cooktop, rather than out from right rear burner. For help in positioning offset vent, refer to the Use and Care Booklet. Avoid covering the right rear element with a decorative burner cover. This will cause heat to build up under the cooktop when the oven is in use.

• Check the pan size. Oversized pans will trap heat between the bottom of the pan and the cooktop; this will transfer a lot of heat to the cooktop. Your pans should not hang over more than one inch on each side of any surface burner. (e.g., on an eight inch burner the maximum pan size should not exceed ten inches. On six inch burners the pans you use should not be larger than eight inches.)

• Make sure the burners are uncovered. Covering the drip pans with aluminum foil will transfer more heat to the cooktop.

• Check the type of burners. On ranges with cast iron solid disk burners, the transfer of heat from those burners to the cooktop can be significant and the cooktop can become very hot. Caution should be used with these type burners.

• Check the type of drip pans. Dark or porcelain drip pans can conduct more burner heat to the cooktop than bright aluminum drip pans under your coil surface elements.

Gas Ranges:

• On most gas ranges, the oven is usually vented up through the back-splash and heat from the oven is directed downward. This may make the cooktop hot if you bake, broil, or roast for an extended period.

• Check the pan size. If you use an oversized pan, heat will be trapped between the bottom of the pan and the cooktop and transfer a lot of heat to the cooktop. Your pans should not hang over more than one inch on each side of any surface burner.

• Make sure the oven preheated. The oven needs time to preheat before baking. Most pies, cakes, biscuits, etc., have such short cooking times that failure to preheat the oven can make a significant difference in cooking results.

• Convection Conversion Models. Some model convection ranges will automatically change the set temperature 25 degrees lower.

• Check the type of cookware that is being used. Your cookware may be having an effect on the baking results. If the pans being used are dark baking pans, be sure to reduce the oven temperature 25 degrees. These pans retain heat and at the regular baking temperatures some foods may burn or overcook.

• Make sure heat is not blocked from circulating in the oven. If the use of aluminum foil is being used on the oven shelf, never cover the entire shelf. This will block the circulation of heat in the oven. There should always allow two inches around the back sides of the oven shelf for heat circulation.

• Check the placement of pans in the oven. Pan placement may be affecting how the oven heats. How and where the pans are placed in the oven will make a difference. Make sure that there is at least one to two inches between pans and between pans and the side and rear walls of the oven to ensure proper air/heat circulation.

• Check the rack position. Rack position can also be critical to proper baking. Please consult the Owner's Manual.

• Make sure the oven door has not been opened during cooking. Opening the oven door frequently when cooking can increase the cooking time. Also, check the oven gasket for rips or tears. A torn gasket will need to be replaced.

Electric ranges only:

Turn the oven on and make sure that the bake element (the one in the bottom of the oven) glows in the bake cycle. Then set the oven control to broil and watch the broil element (the one in the top of the oven) to see if it glows. If not, there may be a malfunction in the element.

• Make sure that oven controls are set correctly for either bake or broil.

• Check oven door on self-clean ranges to make sure it is in the unlocked position.

• Check the oven knobs to make sure they are in the correct position. If the range has knobs for oven temperature and oven function and if the control knobs were removed for cleaning, make sure they were reinstalled in the proper location.

Electric Ranges Only:

• Check the bake element. Turn your range OFF and remove fuses or turn breaker OFF, then unplug the range. Carefully inspect the bake element (lower element) for cracks or breaks. If cracked or broken, it will need to be replaced.

• Even if the bake element is not broken or cracked, since it does not heat service is needed.

Gas Ovens Only (excludes Dual Fuel Ranges):

• On new gas range installations, make sure range main gas regulator "on" the range is set in the on position. They are all shipped with the regulator in the "on" position but if jarred or bumped during installation it can spring back to the off position. This on/off lever on the regulator may not be apparent to most consumers. (Burners will still work with the valve off, oven will not!)

• Check the oven Glo-Bar Igniter. Turn oven to “on” position, open oven door, and look for a red glow. If no red glow is observed, there may be a malfunction with the Glo-Bar, on/off control, or other electrical components.

The normal operation of your refrigerator will cause some sound. The following list contains sounds that are normal.


• A change in fan speed as the refrigerator responds to changes in temperature due to door opening.

• A clicking/tic toc noise can be heard when the defrost timer switches on and off.

• A click can be heard when the temperature control unit turns the unit on and off.

• A boiling, gurgling, or knocking sound can be heard when the unit is running. This is caused by the circulation of refrigerant.

• Gurgling sound in the door. This sound can be heard just after the door is closed because of the water in drain tube trap area. It can last several seconds.

• A drip may be heard when defrost water is dripping into the pan beneath the refrigerator.

• A hum or click can be heard when the icemaker fills with water. This sound may be heard once or multiple times.

• The icemaker will make a loud noise when cubes are dropped into the bucket.

• Buzzing noises can be heard after getting water from the door dispenser. The noise should not last longer than 7 seconds.

• A snapping sound will be heard about 4 seconds after removing a glass from a dispenser. This is the sound of the dispenser chute closing.

• A clicking noise may be heard after a power shortage. This stems from the compressor trying to re-start itself. The noise could last for 3 to 5 minutes.

• A hissing, sizzling, buzzing, or arching noise may be heard on self-defrost models. This is produced when water drips on defrost heaters.

• Check that the dispenser is not locked. Some models have a lock feature that deactivates the dispenser levers and control buttons. The lock button is on the dispenser front cover. This feature prevents unintentional dispensing during cleaning, etc. Press the "Unlock" or "Locked" button to reactivate the dispenser levers and allow dispenser function.

• If there has been a recent power outage or the power supply has been off for more than 1 hour, the power outage indicator (on some models) will disable the dispenser function. To use the dispenser, press and hold the Reset button (if applicable) for 3 seconds until you hear the beeps.

• Check that ice is not stuck in the ice chute. The ice chute can build up ice flakes over time due to the use of crushed ice. The ice chute is located on the inside of the freezer door and is accessible by removing the ice storage bin. Use only a plastic utensil to remove ice from the ice chute. Do not use anything sharp to remove ice as this may damage the ice chute.

• Once large clumps or cubes are removed, use a warm, wet cloth to wipe the inside of the ice chute. After removing the ice build-up, dry the ice chute by wiping it with a clean, dry cloth to prevent additional ice formation.

• Check that ice is not clumping or sticking together in the ice bin. If it is, shake the ice bin to separate the cubes. If the cubes do not separate, empty the ice bin and clean it. Allow 24 hours for the ice bin to refill.

• Check that ice is not melted around the auger. The auger is the metal spiral object in the ice bin. If it is, dispose of the ice cubes and clean the ice bin. Do not try to remove the melted ice with a sharp object as this may damage the ice bin. Allow 24 hours for the ice bin to refill.

• For a freezer to maintain a desired temperature of 0 degrees F or a combination refrigerator-freezer to maintain a 5 degrees F freezer and 35 - 40 degrees fresh food temperature, the compressor will usually run more than 50% of the time. Refrigerators have smaller, more powerful, high-speed compressors that generally cost less to operate than those in older refrigerators. These compressors are designed to run 80 % to 90% of the time. This makes them more energy efficient because the greatest amount of energy used when the compressor cycles on.

Factors that contributes to run time:

• In extremely hot, humid areas, run time may approach 100%.

• Loading the refrigerator or freezer with a large amount of food, especially warm or hot foods, will also add to the run time. Hot foods should be allowed to cool before being placed in the cabinet.

• Another significant factor that contributes to run time is an empty or lightly loaded freezer. Because no insulation material is perfect, air alone does not retain cold. An empty refrigerator or freezer must run more to maintain temperatures low enough to satisfy the temperature control and turn the compressor off. A freezer should be at least 3/4 full to maintain proper temperatures and reduce time.

• Door openings contribute significantly to the run time of any refrigerator. When the door is opened, some of the heavy cold air slides out of the cabinet, pulling warm air in at the top.

• Make sure that ALL bins and shelves, in freezer and fresh-food section, are properly seated in the refrigerator. Ensure that large trays, platters, and food items (like pizza boxes) are arranged so that they do not interfere with the door closing. (If freezer door, make sure no ice is behind the ice bin, and if present ensure bottom freezer basket is on its rollers)

• Check door gaskets - are they sealing properly?

• Check for blocked air vents in freezer section (any grill work on back wall).

• Be sure the refrigerator is installed with proper air clearance.

• Make sure interior lights are off when door is closed.

• Heavy frost build up (1/2" or more) on non-defrost models will cause long run times.

• To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.

Causes of frost accumulation:

• High humidity.

• Heavy door openings.

• Warm food load.

• Packages resting against the rear wall.

• Packages keeping the door open.

• After correcting these causes, the frost accumulation will go away in a few days. You may need service if the door gaskets are not sealing properly or are torn or split or if the fan in the freezer is not running.

NOTE: Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners such as window sprays, scouring cleansers, flammable fluids, cleaning waxes, concentrated detergents, bleaches or cleansers containing petroleum products on plastic parts, interior and door liners, or gaskets. Do not use scouring pads, or other harsh cleaning tools.

• Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power.

• Hand wash, rinse, and dry removable parts and interior surfaces thoroughly. Use a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water.

• For painted metal surfaces wash with a clean sponge or soft cloth and a mild detergent in warm water. Do not use abrasive or harsh cleaners, or cleaners designed for stainless steel. Dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

• To keep your painted appliance surfaces looking like new use appliance polish and cleaner regularly. This wax-based cleaner and polish goes on easy to remove unwanted grime and dirt and leaves behind a sparkling shine.

New installation

• Make sure the cradle has been held down 2-3 minutes to allow the reservoir to fill completely. (The reservoir is in refrigerator) This does not apply to top mount models with a water dispenser, because there is no reservoir. Note: It take approximately 7 seconds to fill an 8 ounce glass.

No water

• Make sure the water line to refrigerator is turned on. The saddle valve is used to connect the water supply line to the house plumbing and must be fully open for the refrigerator to receive water.

No water from door

• Check the water tank behind the vegetable bins to if it is frozen or cracked. This is hard to do visually, usually a frozen tank will be split and will leak on the fresh food floor. Low food load in the fresh food section can cause the tank to freeze.

• The meat pan lever may also be turned to the coldest position and on units that have a low water usage, this will also cause the tank to freeze. You will want to lower the meat drawer setting or use more water from the door. This does not apply to Top Mount water dispenser models, because they do not have a reservoir. Problem requiring service, glass fill time.

Dispenser drips water

• If the dispenser drip water constantly, there most likely is a water valve problem, and you should have it checked by a service technician.

Dribble

• A dribble as defined as a small amount of water (few drops) that may miss the glass ONLY AFTER USAGE. This is due to a delay in the overall system.

Side by Side Models

• If foods, such as fruits and vegetables, in the refrigerator are freezing, it can be caused by several things. First, check the controls. They should be set at "C" and "5" or "5" and "5". The proper fresh food temperature is between 38 and 42 degrees Fahrenheit. The freezer should be between 0 and 8 degrees Fahrenheit.
• If food in the bottom of the refrigerator is freezing, this could be caused by a refrigerator not having enough food to absorb the cold air.

• If food in the door is freezing, move the door bins up or down so they are one notch away from freezer vents (side by side models only).

• The fresh food control should be at the normal setting of 5.

Freezer on Top Models

• First, check the controls. They should be set at "C" and "5" or "5" and "5". The proper fresh food temperature is between 38 and 42 degrees Fahrenheit. The freezer should be between 0 and 8 degrees Fahrenheit.

• Since the cold air coming into the fresh food section originates in the freezer above, the rear of the top shelf will be the coldest spot in the fresh food area. Avoid placing delicate items that freeze easily on the back half of this shelf.

• If food is freezing in the produce (fruits and vegetables) or meat pan, it may be that the temperature controls are not set high enough. Since cold air naturally falls, the pans can get too cold if the refrigerator is not running long enough to maintain good air circulation. Adjust both controls up one notch.

• If your doors have been opened frequently, doors have been opened for long periods of time, or your refrigerator was recently installed, wait 24-48 hours for the refrigerator to completely cool.


• Your refrigerator should not be placed where temperatures will exceed 110°F or drop below 55°F.


• Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It could take several hours for the refrigerator to return to the normal temperature.


• If the refrigerator is in Defrost mode, the freezer compartment temperature will be less cold than usual. Wait approximately 20 minutes, and you should be able to feel cold air blowing in the bottom of the compartment.


• For your convenience, your temperature controls are preset at the factory to "mid-settings," which should be correct for normal household use. However, the controls may need to be adjusted. If so, adjust the temperature one setting colder and wait 24 hours for the temperature of the refrigerator or freezer and contents to cool. Repeat this procedure until the desired temperature is reached.


• Make sure the air vents between the freezer and refrigerator compartments are not blocked. Cold air enters and exits the refrigerator compartment from the freezer compartment through vents near the top shelf and crisper drawer. If the vents are blocked by food items, airflow will decrease, which will cause temperature and moisture problems. Move any item that could be blocking one of the vents.