Appliance Repair Blog

Thoughts and commentary about appliance repair topics including common failures and repairs, plus links to frequently used parts, industry news, along with information to help you better understand your appliances. Resources available for the technical professional and the do-it-yourselfer.

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Model #WPRE6100G0WTicon, this top load washer would light up, but the motor would not agitate or spin in any of the cycles. Using my meter and the tech sheet for this model, I verified I had voltage to the inverter board (which is attached to the motor), then noticed a fuse indicated on the neutral line returning from the board. This particular fuse is not a typical glass or ceramic fuse, but an axial fuse that is crimp connected directly in line with the wiring harness and then covered in heat shrink and electrical tape. Once I removed all the protective coverings, I did a voltage check across the fuse (remember a good fuse will measure 0vac across it) and found my full 115vac source voltage. The fuse reads open resulting in an open circuit to the motor.

Update - There is now a fuse kiticon available to complete this repair and the information that I have been able to obtain is the fuse fails as a result of opening the washer lid during agitation. So to be safe, if you need to get into the washer while it is running, press the pause button on the control instead of opening the lid to pause the wash. You just may be able to prevent this kind of failure.

4 comments:

Brian said...

How would you suggest going about testing a GE motor? My great grandfather used to repair washer and dryers, as well as refrigerators. My dad works on fitness equipment and I have taken many dryers apart but have not jumped to far into washers. My girlfriend's mom has a GE washer, a lightning storm swept through Virginia and took out some surge protectors, and ones connected to the washer. I took out the motor to try and test it, the machine lights up, its a manual version of the WPRE6100G0WT no bells and whistles (plain knobs). The pumps work on the spin cycle, but the motor no longer turns, and this is all since the lightning. I will check to possibly see if its the fuse on the one the neutral line. Would be awesome if that was just the case. I don't understand why the motor would be shot from a surge, however I could see that the circuit board on top of the motor might have taken a hit. How much does a motor or a circuit board sell for marked up for the customer? Any suggestions who to buy from in Virginia Beach, VA? Certified GE Technician maybe? Thanks for all your help, your website is awesome. I would love for my dad to take pictures of his daily encounters and to start a blog.
Thanks for your help,
Brian in Virginia
BTickell@gmail.com

TechnicianBrian said...

Hey Brian, thanks for visiting. The washer you are having the problem with is essentially a direct drive washer that utilizes a DC motor driven by a motor controller to determine RPM and direction. The best way to test those motors is the pull the techsheet out from under the control panel and do the motor test. The board on top has an indicator LED that will indicate a fault and give you an idea of which way to proceed. If there is no indicator light, that would suggest no power which leads back to the inline fuse which can be bypassed for testing purposes. As for purchasing the part, I suggest AppliancePartPros.com (see link in Sponsors and Ads box) because they have comparative prices, and a better return policy than most walk in shops you will find. And I do make a small amount from each sale to help pay for this site. If it indeed is the motor, it isn't a hard repair to do. Good luck and let me know how things turn out.

Brian

Bri said...

Brian,
I tested the motor, it checked out fine.
I then went over to the house, and unwrapped the electrical tape and took off the shrink wrap off of the neutral line. Tested it, and low and behold same problem as the one that you had repaired. I asked my dad about the fuse that I replaced it with. It was a 10A 250V fast blow from radio shack. He repairs fitness equipment and does electrical work (on treadmills, bikes, ellipticals) and a small background in small appliance repair and working for the New England electrical company, but he wasn't too sure if the fuse I used would be a good replacement for the original axial fuse since it is a 10A 125V fuse. Since I picked up a bag of fast blow fuses (10A 250V), it shouldn't be a problem to replace if another surge happens. Unfortunately I don't know much about Ohms law and whether or not the fuse I used would be equal to a 20A 125V, or a 10A that could handle up to 250V...
The washer has already been replaced by my girlfriends mom. I believe she will be giving it to a friend who is tight for cash.
Your help was able to help out someone in need of a washer.
Thanks!
Brian Tickell

TechnicianBrian said...

Good work Brian. The imporant part of the fuse rating is the amperage because you are trying to protect the unit from an over current condition. A 250vac 10A fuse should work just fine.

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