Ice maker components can easily be tested by gaining access to the module on the front of the unit. There you will find several holes that lead to electrical test points on the module. Using a multi-meter, voltage and resistance checks can be conducted at these test points. Using an insulated (14 gauge) jumper wire will allow component operation testing. Compare your findings to the readings below to help with unit diagnosis. These ice maker modules are found on most Whirlpool and Maytag manufactured products along with a few others. If the module looks like the one pictured, these checks will work for you.



Before conducting these tests, make sure the ice maker is plugged into the refrigerator, the shut-off arm is down, and the freezer is below 15 F. Also make sure the water connection is turned on, and that supply tube to the ice maker is not frozen.

• Verify voltage to the ice maker by measuring between test points L & N on the module. Line voltage of approximately 120 volts AC should be expected. If voltage is not present, verify the ice maker is plugged into the connector and the shut off arm is down. Some models require the door switch to be in the closed position to power the ice maker. If you still don’t have voltage to the ice maker, check the thermal fuse on the black wire for an open circuit.



• Check the thermostat by measuring between test points T & H on the module. If the bi metal thermostat is open, approximately 120 VAC will be measured. If it is closed, 0VAC will be measured. If the bi metal reads open inside a cold freezer, then the thermostat has failed and needs to be replaced.



• A jumper wire inserted between test points T & H will bypass the bi metal thermostat and force a harvest cycle. If the motor does not run with the jumper in place, replace the module assembly. Leave the jumper wire in for the first half a revolution to verify the mold heater is working. Removing the jumper during the last half a revolution will allow the water fill valve to actuate. Failure of the mold heater to operate would indicate it needs to be replaced. An open mold heater will also prevent the water valve from operating.




• A jumper wire inserted between test points L & V will actuate the water fill valve (have towels handy). If the fill valve fails to operate, verify the wiring to the valve by measuring voltage at the valve connectors. Voltage present at the fill valve but no operation, indicates a bad valve. If there is no voltage present, verify your wiring back to the ice maker module.

These are the basic tests to help diagnose a failed ice maker component. By following these steps, you should be able to locate and correct your problem.