Appliance Repair Blog

Thoughts and commentary about appliance repair topics including common failures and repairs, plus links to frequently used parts, industry news, along with information to help you better understand your appliances. Resources available for the technical professional and the do-it-yourselfer.

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Model #KGSC308LSS0icon, this slide in gas range had been working well for the customer until the point they decided to run a self cleaning cycle. The cycle began like normal with the door locking, but after the cycle was complete, the door remained locked, and an error message was displayed in the screen. Pressing the cancel button would rest the error, but then a series of clicks would be heard from the area of the panel, and then the error would reappear and the door would still be locked.

Error codes on appliances are provided as a way to first, show something is wrong, and second, hopefully point the customer in the right direction for a solution. Some codes are considered user codes and can be reset by correcting the problem, while others are considered service codes and usually indicates the need for a technical professional to have a look. These codes are often associated with a range part that has failed and needs to be replaced, but they can also be something that is simply out of adjustment. The thing to remember when an error occurs on any appliance with electronic controls is to turn off the power to the unit, wait a few minutes, then power it back up. Most of these control boards have microprocessors on them and just like the computer you are reading this post on, are sometimes susceptible to confusion. By resetting the board, you are giving the appliance the chance to reboot it's program and hopefully return to a functional condition. If not, then it is time to identify the code by checking the user manual, or taking a look at a generic error codeicon listing. When none of that works, it's time to call a professional.

Given this range was just self cleaned, and the error message indicated that the door lock could not unlock, I didn't need to look to far for the likely problem. I enjoy diagnosing appliance failures, but some times its nice to follow the path to the failure. The lock on this model is located on the back of the range and latches the door by actuating a steel rod by a solenoid and ratchet mechanism. When the solenoid is energized by the control board, it will rotate the rod locking the door, and the ratchet will hold it in place. When it is time to unlock the door, the solenoid will again be energized, but this time the ratchet will release the rod and return it to the unlocked position. A micro switch is used to determine when the latch is in the locked position. So when the control board attempts to unlock the door, if the switch remains closed, then it knows there is a problem, and thus, displays an error message.

After removing the rear panel and having a look at the latch, I was able to manually return the rod to the unlocked position with a little effort. Once the error was cleared, I started a self clean cycle to force the door locked again, then canceled the cycle to release the door. The solenoid was activated, but each time, the ratchet mechanism would stick preventing the door from being unlocked.

Since the electronic parts of this range seemed to be working properly, I took the lock assemblyicon apart to clean and re grease the slides to see if that would allow it to work better. After some work, and putting it all back in place, I tested it again, and this time it worked just fine. As I said above, sometimes we find a failed component that needs to be replaced, but other times, it just needs to be repaired.

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Anonymous said...

I share the same taste for fixing things myself and I enjoyed reading your post. I followed your instructions and saved:
a) Probably a couple of hundred dollars
b) Lots of time finding the solenoid myself
c) A few more gray hairs

Thanks for the advice.


Andrew Bracy said...

Wow what a great posting here for an easy and free fix! I did just what you did and I had the lock working in about 30 mins. No parts to buy or anything, just my free labor. You probably saved me a couple hundred bucks! One thing I did learn from doing this that you may want others to know is once you've cleaned it up and lubed it and put everything back together it may still bind up from the rod that goes to the oven door. If it does just move the entire switch housing up or down a little and that should free it up. Make sure you spray some lube on that rod also. The metal will bend a little and should stay in whatever position you put it in.

Anonymous said...

Worked great, thank you! I found that the piston of the solenoid needed lubrication in addition to the rachet mechanism because the piston must freely rotate only a couple of degrees to allow ratchet to function properly.


New York

patrick said...

Thanks for the tips, back in business!

Anonymous said...

This worked perfectly!!! Thank you very much-you saved a bunch of us a couple hundred bucks!

Mason said...

Thanks so much for the GREAT and very USEFUL tips! Your expertise and kindness to share your solution just helped us out immensely. We have the exact same model as you with the SAME problem. Very frustrating at first, but followed your steps and bingo. The problem has been resolved. Just wanted to write and say thank you! You also saved us some hard earned $$$ tonight. Much appreciated friend!

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