Appliance Repair Blog

Thoughts and commentary about appliance repair topics including common failures and repairs, plus links to frequently used parts, industry news, along with information to help you better understand your appliances. Resources available for the technical professional and the do-it-yourselfer.

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Model #WCVH6800J1WWicon, this front load washer had been working properly since it arrived in the home, but during the last wash cycle, the display went out and everything stopped working. The door was still locked and water was still in the tub. It was as if the unit had been unplugged, but the outlet was still working as verified by the working iron the customer used to test it. With clothes trapped behind the locked door soaking in water, it became important to get this washer up and running quickly.

When any appliance stops working and the lights go out, this is a sure sign of no power to the unit. This can be caused by a loose electrical connection, a damaged control board, or even a tripped circuit breaker. But the nice thing about troubleshooting this type of problem is if you can start where you still have power, simply take measurements along the way until you no longer have power. There is where you will likely find your point of failure.

This washer had a working outlet, as the customer discovered, and I verified using my multimeter. Once inside the chassis of the washer, the electrical connection from the wall outlet goes into a component called a line filter. These filters are used on most any electrical device that employs a semiconductor type circuit board as a means to control the function of the machine. Because logic boards are sensitive to electrical noise from motors and electrical circuits switching on and off, the filter will help clean up the power. It also helps to protect other devices in the home by filtering the noise produced by the washer itself.

Using my meter, I found the line voltage entering the filter, but nothing coming out. A check between the black wire and chassis ground showed source voltage on the line which means the neutral connection must be open. Without a complete circuit, current cannot flow and without current flow, well nothing is going to work. As a temporary workaround, I bypassed the filter on the neutral side and had the machine powered up and draining water. With the clothes rescued from the basket and all the machine functioned tested, I was confident the the diagnosis.

I then installed a new filtericon on to the back wall of the washer and made the necessary electrical connections. Once plugged back into the wall, the unit again came to life when the power switch was pressed.



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