Appliance Repair Blog
Thoughts and commentary about appliance repair topics including common failures and repairs, plus links to frequently used parts, industry news, along with information to help you better understand your appliances. Resources available for the technical professional and the do-it-yourselfer. Over 650 Posts

Frigidaire Oven not Heating

Model #FEFL79DBAicon, this freestanding oven suddenly stopped heating for the customer no matter the cycle selected. When they went to test the surface burners, they too would not work. The clock was still illuminated so they were sure the range had power to it which left them thinking there must be something wrong with the oven itself.

When ovens, ranges, or cook tops stop heating, the problem can be localized such as with a single heating element, or more general as in this case where all the elements stopped working. In the first case, you would need to verify the operation of the individual elements and then check the circuit associated with the one that has failed. But if the entire thing isn’t working, it’s time to look at what all of those elements have in common.

This can be something as simple as one of the circuit breakers has tripped, or a bit more catastrophic as we will see. But it is always best to start with the simple stuff and go to the breaker box. See cooking appliances use 240 VAC circuits to generate the temperatures we use for backing. To get this higher voltage, the wiring to the outlet or the oven consists of two separate 120 VAC circuits, each with their own circuit breaker. If either circuit has failed, there will be no complete circuit and thus, no heat. The circuit breaker is a good place to start, but one you have confirmed everything is alright from the source, then it is time to go to the electrical connection and start looking for where voltage is present, and where it is missing.

Generally the best place to start is the terminal block. These are used on most 240 VAC appliances as the connection point for the electricity from the home. This is also where the plug wiring is connected depending on the type of outlet found in the home. If you measure 240 VAC at this point, then the power from the home is good and the problem remains in the appliance. If you don’t have the full 240 VAC, then it’s not the appliance and it may be time to get an electrician to the home.

When I removed the terminal block access cover on this range, the reason for it not heating became very obvious. The L2 or second circuit connection had melted the wires insulation and burned the wires in two. The terminal block itself was also heavily damaged as a result of the excess heat.

The usual reason for this type of failure is the screws or nuts securing the wires to the block are not tight. This creates a highly resistive connection with generates heat each time the circuit is used. Eventually the result will be the failure we see in the photo above. But it can be repaired and made to work safely and correctly.

On this range, I removed the old block and installed a new terminal block kiticon with all new connection points. Also a new range cordicon was installed and finally a new connector for the ranges L2 connection. Remember to cut the wire back to good copper before adding the new connector. With everything installed and the unit plugged back into the wall, each of the burners again worked as expected.

Presented by – All Tech Appliance Service, your Portland Oregon appliance repair company. We service many brands of refrigerators, washers, dryers, ranges, dishwashers, freezers, ovens and microwaves including popular brands like Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Frigidaire, Amana, GE, Jenn Air, Ikea, Sears, Estate, Roper, Electrolux, KitchenAid, Fisher & Paykel and more. We also provide preventative appliance maintenance, dryer vent cleaning, replacement appliance installation, and property management appliance service. Visit us online at

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